Monday 25 August 2014

Kirklees Way #4: Dewsbury to Clayton West 23/08/14

Self at Dewsbury
August has been going well so far, so I think this is a cue to go against the clock again, not because I'm feeling like i should be going at a healthier clip, but more because I've got a hot date in the late afternoon (or that's how I've been teasing it on Facebook, more prosaically it's a barbecue at my supervisor's house in Garforth, scheduled in whilst we can still claim Summer is in the air). I've realistically got one bus ride from my destination that will get me home in time, and that's due at 2pm, so a very early start is in order, rolling through Dewsbury town centre as the low sun glowers down into my eyes, long before the citizens emerge to hit the shops and the only people about are busy setting up the urban beach around the town hall for August bank holiday weekend. One thing to ponder at this early hour, however, regarding the statue of two figures in the town hall square, notionally titled 'The Good Samaritan', it actually looks like someone tending their drunk friend after a heavy chundering session and ought to be titled something like 'I think that's the last of it' or 'That curry was a really bad idea'. Also, I'm not the only person on the internet to have made this observation, so look it up, but anyway, I think I'm starting to digress, so onward...

Kirklees Way #4: Dewsbury to Clayton West  12.6 miles

Earlsheaton Tunnel
Depart from the Dewsbury ring road at 8.25am, which might be my earliest start in all my up country wanderings, heading off down Ridings Road and through the yard that is home to the fairground folks and their kit, wondering how many of them are making busy in the town hall square this morning. Thence onward down the old GNR Dewsbury Loop line, still shrouded in much greenery and not looking like a decent surface will be coming this way anytime soon, even though it would be an obvious link to the cycleways that run out by the Calder, the junctions of which are soon met, and I'll be heading in the direction of the relatively new path towards Ossett, which offers a good look back in the direction of Headfield viaduct, the stonework of which is lit up beautifully by the low morning sun. The route of the Kirklees Way does not officially take in my next feature, but it would be foolish to avoid it just for fidelity to the path, and I'd be certain that a future adjustment would surely want to send the route through Earlsheaton Tunnel, not the longest of tunnels but gracefully curving to cut through the edge of the upland on which its district namesake sits, supposedly illuminated by LED lights which don't actually shed that much light on the surroundings, and already well used even at this hour, making a straightforward link to the eastern fringes of Dewsbury and to the settlements beyond. On through the cutting to the junction of paths to Earlsheaton and Chickenley, also re-engaging the Kirklees Way official route, with the more obvious path being not the correct one, instead following the snaking route uphill to the east to meet the level path along the old railway formation to Ossett, of which only the slightest hint of the parish church spire can be seen, so much nearer by than it was from the high moor land three days on the trail ago. The way's route into the fields is at a distinctly well hidden junction, and it's a pity to abandon the greenway so soon, but many more steps will have us heading into Wakefield district, and thus the long walk down to the river starts, hugging the field boundaries, between fields of corn and stubble before meeting a new plantation of trees where the path swings east again along a muddy track before hair-pinning south once more along the margins as far as a sewage farm. Then eastward again, as the path heads into some rough ground to emerge behind Healey Old Mills, which don't have an appearance that requires that name, but for an active industrial site, they are wise enough to give you clear indication of where the right of way lies, providing a yellow line to walk behind through the whole length of the site.

The Calder at Healey Mills
Not much opportunity to see much of Healey itself, or the award winning Brewer's Pride public house, instead heading south to cross the footbridge over the Calder, opposite the bridges that carry the railway lines around the western throat of the former Healey Mills yard, the eldest of which is the one that I get a view of as I cross over. The path then wends its way beneath the railway line, three bridges in all, with the third of them much further along than the route guide would suggest, still enduring despite the rail yard ceasing to exist in the 1980s, and the Calder throws in a dramatic curve too before we take our leave of it, rising to meet the towpath of the Calder and Hebble Navigation, for some familiar footfalls for a distance before crossing over at Lady Anne's Bridge and continuing south. The broad farm track rises away from the river, beneath many pylons and never quite offering the view towards Ossett that it promised, but it does cross over two overbridges, passing across the Thornhill spur and the main line of the Midland Railway's ill-fated route into Dewsbury, neither offers a good trackbed view, sadly. Meeting the lower edge of Thornhill itself, I make the immediate discovery that it is much larger than I would have thought, passing the old farm buildings and lodges associated to the the grounds of Thornhill Hall, and a little further along the road the buildings of Combs Hill Hall primary school are boarded up and abandoned, looking inviting for the adventurous urb-ex types. Pass into the hall's parkland, a little off piste to get sight of the moat which once surrounded the hall itself, destroyed in the wake of the English Civil war after the Savile family backed the Royalist cause, and the way rises vaguely up through the park, nicely landscaped and again much more extensive than I'd expected, finally meeting a metalled surface and rising to exit the park onto Church Lane. This corner calls itself Four Lanes End, and four lanes do indeed end at this spot, and I'll take the route up Valley Road, where suburbia has bloomed in recent years to show that this is a settlement of many faces, and the east facing houses along here have at least got a view to appreciate, looking across the lower Calder valley in the direction of Ossett and Horbury, to go with their morning sun-traps. The road peters out to track and to path rapidly, disappearing into a shroud of trees and swinging westward, and the only route instruction that needs to be retained is keep taking the uphill paths, as we are now setting course for Thornhill Edge.

Thornhill Edge
The steep southern edge of Thorn Hill (surely) falls away sharply as the path rises and you don't seem to have ascended for very long before a great deal of altitude seems to have been gained, and the wide valley around Smithy Brook and the fields of Emroyd Common spread out below you, with the villages of Overton and Middletown standing atop the hills on the other side. It's mostly bracken, brambles and gorse for company along the path edge as it rises to the top, behind the houses that you actually get little sense of, hiding behind their walls, as all your attention is drawn to the bucolic landscapes below, recognising the view over towards Emley Moor mast and acknowledging that it will be a focal point for the entirety of today's walk (it's visible from everywhere in Kirklees, of course, but today it will be at its most prominent). Emerge behind the Flatt Top inn, and pass across Albion Road, then rising to the second half of the edge walk, meeting the artistic seat which would be a prime spot for lunch if it wasn't far too early in the day, and the path continues concealing the nearby council estate behind a grassy bank, and I do wonder what sort of 20th century brain though this high hill would be an ideal spot for social housing. The bank takes an a grassier aspect, and also gains a railing as its drop gets steeper, with little more than foot of bank before dropping into the void, at one point a recent rock fall has left the path feeling just a little precarious, and you wonder if those nice suburban houses below are sure that they are safe, originally conceived for the views without thinking of the risks posed by the landscape above. The rail disappears as the slope eases off, making the path feel safer as the last stretch of bracken and grass is traversed before disappearing behind a fence as the houses below claim the last stretch of the slope for their back gardens, and a short route down steps to High Street is indicated, and this most certainly isn't the main strip of the village, or even a particularly elevated road either, but it is a landscape of suburbia conceived in yellow-brown stone and slate. The way further down the hill passes down a steep path between the garden fences, steep and slick with far too many incursions by brambles, and it's very slow going downhill for a stupidly short distance, resisting the temptation to stop for blackberries as I pass, and then it's back to the fields down to Howroyd Beck, where I can startle the only dog walker on the trail as I pause at the field corner to check on my directions.

Denby / Grange Wood
The rise to Carr Lane is through a field of mixed livestock and is the first in a string of elevations followed by drops as the landscape is roughened up by a variety of becks feeding into the distant Calder, and elevenses are taken at the top of the rise as my timekeeping is checked and a look back reveals the full extent of Thornhill Edge behind me, and even with the drawbacks, a residence here would be most desirable. All height gained is lost as field walk drops me down to Breastfield beck, and the rise beyond leads to Sowood Lane for some relatively level going along the farm tracks beneath the power lines, before swinging around the head of another beck and rising to the hamlet at Woodlands Farm, which still looks like a holiday village to me (one of the big house being currently vacant and yours if you've got over 350K to drop on it, I'm sure). Depart the path back to Thornhill and swing down the edge of a trotting field to enter Denby / Grange Wood, for another beck crossing and a rise up through the trees, a real empire of spindly trunks where the only other pair of serious walkers on the trail will be found, indicating that this corner of the Way is probably the least engaging, and engaged. The field walk beyond is along a number of stubbly fields, horrible and potentially painful going among those short, sharp stems of harvested wheat, but the view back to Thornhill is a good one, and the spires of Ossett and Wakefield appear proud in the landscape as the eastward view really opens up, and that's pretty much the last of it we'll be seeing in that direction as the way leads past Fish Pond Plantation and through the iron turnstile at the back of Rookery farm. Cross over the A642 Wakefield Road, the oldest turnpike in the district, and the rising field of wheat leads us quickly over to the back of Flockton, where the path descends into the village behind a lot more brick terraces than I would have anticipated in this quarter, and that has us looking towards Emley Moor mast once more as the path sends us through the eastern edge of the village, along the A637 Barnsley Road. Descend down the farm track of Mill Lane towards Mill Beck, where a house has done its best to hide the path that passes through its yard, and the route continues along the beck through the next couple of fields and for the first time since starting out on this trail, we are out of the landscape that feeds into the Calder, as despite being still within West Yorkshire, we have now entered the Dearne valley, definably one of the major rivers of South Yorkshire.


Emley Moor Mast, above Clayton West
Field walking and clock watching governs my progress for much of the rest of the day, as a stroll around Furnace Grange farm leads me through wheat and stubble before dropping to cross Clough Dike and then hitting a long field boundary walk along a level track in the direction of Emley Woodhouse, wondering why the trail has avoided Emley village itself, and just when I have gotten used to the easy going on the ground, the passage across Little Dike, and the final rise to the farm offer me slipperiness and overgrowth that I could have done without when going at the hurry up. Over Ash Lane, and the route is detoured around Woodhouse farm and its associated detritus, with no indication of which side of the hedge the path continues along, and I choose incorrectly, but the barbed wire fence has been neatly mangled by other walkers to give me ease of passage before crossing the stiles to pass through the fields of the picturesque White Cross Farm, and site of my finish line in Clayton West is finally gained. A hard track is met, leading me around Gillcar Farm and past the dozing cattle as I work my way down to the A636 Wakefield Road, where leg 8 ends according to my guide, nowhere near a bus stop once again, and so I press on down the track beyond to cross the River Dearne, not yet a major waterway at this point, and the follow the lane sharply uphill to Clayton Hall farm, from where a view is gained of High Hoyland church, far from its village and surrounded by forest off to the south. Press back down the hill westwards towards Clayton West, where the tooting whistles of the Kirklees Light railway can be heard, and it would demand a visit if I weren't against the clock, descending across the fields to enter what the locals would call The Park, laid out in the 1890s by John Kaye, the industrialist who fired the growth of the village in the 19th century, and since donated to the villagers in perpetuity by the family as the Millennium Gardens, a nicely wild and unkempt corner that seems well used and still watched over by the Kaye family pile at the top of the parkland. Press on into the village, emerging onto Scott Hill, which seems a bit too leafy to be part of a former mining village, pressing on down Church lane, past the neat All Saints church and rolling up to the bus stop outside the Shoulder of Mutton pub at 1.25pm, with just enough time for a cheeky half, if it wasn't for the pub not opening until 3pm. So a 40 minute wait for the bus follows, with a late lunch being taken in the war memorial garden, and my sister is proven right that it is sometimes good to have a good burn followed by a rest rather than maintaining a slower steady pace. I beat the weather too, looming ominously in the north-east for the late part of the day, and all hopes for dryness the remainder of the day are carried with me as I ride homeward, with course set for an evening of food, booze and sing-songing at my supervisor's place.

Next on the Slate: August bank Holiday promises rain and low temperatures, so the following weekend will bring on my late Summer Jollies and the second half of Hadrian's Wall Path.

 
1,000 Miles Cumulative Total: 1257.1 miles
 
(2014 total: 343.9 miles)
 
(Up Country Total: 1161.5 miles)
(Solo Total: 1041.7 miles)
(Declared Total: 1048.9 miles)

 

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